Why does Panerai’s CEO think downsizing their big watches is a good thing?
Panerai watches are big. That burly form, brimming with armed forces pride and machismo, is part of the brand's entreatment. But they used to be bigger.
Its at present-famous ties to the Italian Navy meant that historic models were armed services instruments, not fashion statements. A 1956 Radiomir with a rotating bezel deputed by the Egyptian Navy measured a whopping 60mm.
It wasn't until 1993 that Panerai started hawking its wares to civilians, and its example sizes were reduced to more wearable sizes. Thus began the brand'southward oversized reign throughout the decade, spearheading the trend of cases at 44mm and larger, wrist sizes be damned.
Still, at that place were those who would lament that a 47mm watch simply wasn't a practical accompaniment. It must accept been a complaint Panerai has heard enough times, because in 2022 it finally released the Panerai Luminor Due 38mm – its smallest watch ever.
It was a bold move from a watchmaker that prided itself in making assuming watches, then we decided to inquire the homo himself, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroue, just what it was that made him think pocket-size(er).
DID THE ASIAN Marketplace HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE DOWNSIZING, GIVEN OUR COMPARATIVELY SLIMMER WRISTS?
Well, not really. Almost of the bestsellers in Asia are the same as the ones in Europe. You'd be surprised at the number of Singaporeans who buy our 47mm models. We don't run across today a very big difference between what Americans, Europeans and Asians are ownership.
WHO'S Ownership THE LUMINOR DUE 38MM MODELS And then?
Ninety-nine per cent of them are new customers of the brand. But there are likewise buyers who take all the other models but want a smaller one for more formal occasions. The entire Due collection was made for that purpose – to be worn in a more archetype environment.
Earlier, our watches were typically too large to fit under your sleeve so we made Due watches 30 per cent slimmer. Simply nosotros also have them in 42mm and 45mm sizes.
SOUNDS Similar THE COLLECTION'S A HIT WITH WOMEN, Also.
Yes we take a growing number of ladies buying our watches, especially the Luminor Due 38mm, so we've introduced more material and strap options for that version as well. Panerai is known as a masculine, sporty brand, so nosotros have never made watches especially for women. We have no jewellery watches.
WILL THEY E'er GET SMALLER THAN 38MM?
What I tin can tell you is that nosotros take no such plans for the adjacent v years. We have no intention of capturing trends, whether it'due south square, digital, smaller, bigger, quartz or jewellery.
Among all the big watch companies, Panerai is probably the one that has remained the virtually loyal to its historical families. We haven't invented whatever new lines in 160 years. We have the Luminor, Submersible and Radiomir, and the Due is zilch more than a lighter, smaller Luminor.
I'thou proud to be heading a company that has plenty inventiveness for these existing lines for the next 100 years. Because if all I wanted was to make something successful, I would make a quartz ladies' watch with diamonds. But Panerai will never do that.
"If all I wanted was to make something successful, I would make a quartz ladies' watch with diamonds. But Panerai will never do that."
LET'Southward TALK Almost PANERAI'S NEW DIGITAL STORYTELLING PLATFORM, PAMCAST. WHAT PROMPTED THIS Projection?
Firstly, we realised that people were spending a lot more time on our social networks, especially since the pandemic. Second of all, we noticed a strong interest in the content produced past our brand ambassadors.
People would sit through a twenty- to 30-minute interview with [Max Sirena], the boss of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team, mind to explorer Mike Horn talk almost dealing with isolation when he was lost in the North Pole, and watch Guillaume Nery practise yoga before a free dive.
Once nosotros recognised that we as a make had very strong content, we decided it was time to kickoff acting like a content provider.
"Once nosotros recognised that we every bit a make had very strong content, we decided information technology was time to start interim like a content provider."
ARE YOU OKAY WITH PEOPLE INCREASINGLY THINKING OF PANERAI Every bit A LIFESTYLE BRAND THAN AS A WATCHMAKER?
We have a serious, engineering facet of the make and that'due south all based in Switzerland, simply our inspiration and creativity comes from Italy. Information technology is our identify of origin and our playground, and we are proud of that lighter, lifestyle part of the make.
And then internally, I like to tell my squad that nosotros should get the Netflix of watchmaking – working championship, of course – because Netflix did things differently. Also, we didn't want to be similar everyone else, just talking nearly products and movements.
Our customers are more than curious about the experiences we provide, such as the training session with the Comsubin last year or the guided exploration experience we're planning with Mike Horn. They desire to know virtually the dramatic atmospheric condition they tin can examination our watches in.
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"Internally, I like to tell my team that we should become the Netflix of watchmaking – because Netflix did things differently. Besides, we didn't want to be like anybody else, just talking about products and movements."
CAN You lot Explicate THE PAMCAST SLOGAN, "It'S ALL ABOUT WHAT Yous DON'T SEE"?
In France we have tv channel chosen Culvert+ and one of its slogans was, "At least when you lot're watching Canal+, yous forget you're in forepart of a Television".
Our PamCast motto has the same kind of provocation. It's all about unveiling to you everything that goes on behind the sentry, behind the product.
PamCast is a door or a passport to a new earth, and it's not the same globe many of these other watch brands have. Our industry believes too much that our websites should be this static thing.
Nosotros but have eight topics for PamCast at the moment, simply nosotros're non limiting ourselves to that. We can recollect of hundreds of dissimilar broadcasts, and nosotros tin even rope in the Paneristi, too, like asking nearly their first Panerai.
SPEAKING OF THE PANERISTI, HOW Have YOU BEEN ENGAGING WITH THEM DURING THE PANDEMIC?
We've held well-nigh 1,500 virtual meetings with customers and journalists since April. Information technology doesn't replace personal contact but technology has fabricated it piece of cake to keep in touch and has helped us reach people nosotros may not take otherwise reached.
There is beauty in these hard moments, and that is by beingness part of a second family. Nosotros take 740 employees and xxx,000 Paneristi – and nosotros are all continued by our i mutual passion.
"There is beauty in these hard moments, and that is past being part of a second family unit. We accept 740 employees and thirty,000 Paneristi – and we are all connected by our 1 common passion."
READ> How Panerai'south Luminor sentinel successfully spent seventy years doing the same thing
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/people/panerai-ceo-jean-marc-pontroue-interview-luminor-due-259071
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